The Regimen
Step #1 -- Morning and Evening Cleanse
Cleansing should be a part of both morning and evening skincare to remove pollutants, dirt, and germs. This can be accomplished with the use of any MILD soup or facial cleanser. Never us Bar soap or products that contain harsh detergents, as these products can strip the skin of its natural oils.
Enough product should be used to remove buildup on the skin, including make up, which can cause bacterial growth and the decay of skin cells. It's essential that the cleanser be massaged into the skin with water long enough to ensure dirt is removed. Be cautious to avoid aggressively scrubbing the skin as this could cause irritation.
Step #2 -- Morning and Evening Exfoliate
As new skin cells are produced in the bottom layer of the epidermis, they migrate, flattening as they go, until they reach the outermost layer, where they shed approximately every thirty days. This rejuvenation process is intended to heal and repair damaged skin. As we age, cellular turnover slows, causing the buildup of the skin's keratin layer (dead skin cells). This sets in motion a negative feedback loop whereby the skin, to protect itself from becoming too thick overall, allows its dermis to thin to accommodate the thickened keratin layer.
Among the most common side effects of unhealthy skin many categorize under "sensitive skin". In reality, few individuals have truly sensitive skin. Many symptoms, including dryness, redness, small visible blood vessels, are the body's demonstration that the skin is not functioning as it should.
When it is compromised by unhealthy behaviors (improper nutrition/ hydration, smoking, excessive sun exposure) or damage from aging, as though the skin structure has collapsed. The weakening of the dermis layer causes a decrease in collagen and elastin (remembering from the first blog on skincare, we can not add collagen or elastin to our skin through skincare products. Our skin must make it's own). This collapse of the dermis also weakens the skin's immune response as fewer antibodies are produced. This puts the skin at risk of diseases and even skin cancer. What is usually noticed first, is their skin cannot tolerate various products placed upon it. Thus we say we have "sensitive skin", rather than the tough love needed to restore it back to a healthy condition.
Tough love comes in the form of a daily at-home exfoliation, which encourages skin rejuvenation. As these products dissolve the karatin (dead cell) layer, the skin begins producing more collagen to bring the dermis back to its proper thickness. As the health of your skin improves, you'll notice more elastic, less sensitive and more healthy looking.
Don't waste your money and frustration on products that feature "microspheres" or "granules" they fail to effectively exfoliate and if misused, could cause inflammation leading to further skin damage. Two types of techniques may be used mechanical or chemical.
Mechanical Exfoliation
Most men exfoliate their faces every day through the simple act of shaving. The scraping of a blade against the skin removes dead skin layers. On a middle-aged man, you'll see a noticeable difference between the wrinkles appearing on the forehead and the smooth complexion where he shaves.
This type of exfoliation is not recommended or practical for in-home use. Rather in-office procedures such as microdermabrasion, dermabrasion, or laser resurgfacing are required.
Chemical Exfoliation
This exfoliation requires the use of acid to dissolve the dead karatin tissue. In-office is called peels to remove this layer chemically. But at home, this isn't realistic and could result in burns, so the FDA has intervened for public safety, that chemical acid peels do not exist for purchase over-the-counter. The solution is to use a daily exfoliate that features an effective pH level.
Acids used in Chemical Exfoliation
Of all the acids available, no other family of ingredients has been as beneficial in exfoliation as alpha hydroxy acids, AHAs, these acids are NATURALLY derived from FRUITS and VEGETABLES. AHAs wrk by dissolving a part of the surface inter-cellular cement that holds karatin cells together, allowing them to slough off.
AHA acids commonly used in skincare products and chemical peels
This is where I become frustrated with people who read labels but do not understand what they are reading and assume a product to be unsafe or not natural simply because they don't know what they are reading.
Lactic acid -- derived from Milk
Tartaric acid -- derived from Grapes and Passion Fruit
Malic acid -- derived from Apples
Glycolic acid -- obtained from Sugarcane or Rhubarb (smallest size, penetrates between cells more readily than other acids. Causes the least inflammation of all the AHAs.
Citric acids -- derived from Citrus Fruits
Rentinoic acid -- derived from animal sources and plants containing beta-carotene (found in an earlier blog about nutrition)
BHAs are beta hydroxy acids
Salicylic acid -- derived from Wintergreen, Sweet Birch, and/or Willow Bark
While AHAs and BHAs are utilized in many products, they are most effective when found in those intended to be left on the skin instead of washed off. The percentage of acid in a product is not a good indicator of it's effectiveness. As the pH level is more important to know, one closer to pH3, and should contain an anti-inflammatory ingredient like a medical grade aloe vera to prevent burn. It may take a short period of time for your skin to adjust, and you may experience dryness, flaking, slight redness or breakouts. These conditions are temporary and will subside as your skin builds its tolerance to the product and becomes healthy.
You should exfoliate on a daily basis as the keratin layer is constantly trying to thicken. Infrequent use could result in a dull, uneven skin tone, blemishes, fine lines.
Step #3 -- Morning and Evening Moisturize
Our skin being the largest organ of our body, has a sizeable surface area that regularly evaporates water from inside the body in the form of sweat. It's the basic biological function of skin. Thus it is the first part of the body to experience dehydration. Especially in cold and dry environments found in winters up north and hot summers in the south.
A common myth is that water is absorbed into the skin through skincare products to increase the moisture. This is false, as we can't absorb water past the first cellular layers of the epidermis. The use of moisturizers work to prevent surface evaporation through the use of humectants, molecules that hold more than their weight in water and act as a barrier.
Moisturizers are essential, regardless of your skin type. People with oily or acne skin are often told that they don't need to use a moisturizer at all. Rather, they simply need to utilize a formulation designed for their skin type, not as oily.
You do not need a day and a night moisturizer. Your skin doesn't change throughout the course of the day. The decision to use two separate moisturizers is a personal one. Day moisturizers are convenient as they usually include SPF to protect the skin from sun damage. Night moisturizers are usually formulated with additional humectants and masking agents to make them more moisturizing (heavier). Most products are manufactured to include fragrance or ingredients to appeal to a customers senses. Don't select a moisturizer or any skincare product by simply testing the product on your hand or choosing it based on smell. The skin on the back of your hand is not the same as on your face. Fragrance should be left to your choice of perfume, not your skincare products.
Step #4 -- Morning: Protect
UV light (sun damage) not only pose a potential cancer threat, but also one of main causes of skin damage. Choosing a moisturizer with SPF and benefits you from sun exposure consistently year-round. Sunscreen should be applied daily (or moisturizer with SPF) regardless of your skin tone.
When outdoors for extended periods of time, protective clothing and the application of a sunscreen with an SPF of at least 15 to exposed areas of skin, should be routine. Studies have demonstrated that sunscreens with SPF greater than 30 offer only a minimal increase in protection. SPF 30 protects you from 95-96% of UV rays. Between SPF 30 and SPF 60, there is only a .1% increase in protection.
Inflammation
Step #1 -- Morning and Evening Cleanse
Cleansing should be a part of both morning and evening skincare to remove pollutants, dirt, and germs. This can be accomplished with the use of any MILD soup or facial cleanser. Never us Bar soap or products that contain harsh detergents, as these products can strip the skin of its natural oils.
Enough product should be used to remove buildup on the skin, including make up, which can cause bacterial growth and the decay of skin cells. It's essential that the cleanser be massaged into the skin with water long enough to ensure dirt is removed. Be cautious to avoid aggressively scrubbing the skin as this could cause irritation.
Step #2 -- Morning and Evening Exfoliate
As new skin cells are produced in the bottom layer of the epidermis, they migrate, flattening as they go, until they reach the outermost layer, where they shed approximately every thirty days. This rejuvenation process is intended to heal and repair damaged skin. As we age, cellular turnover slows, causing the buildup of the skin's keratin layer (dead skin cells). This sets in motion a negative feedback loop whereby the skin, to protect itself from becoming too thick overall, allows its dermis to thin to accommodate the thickened keratin layer.
Among the most common side effects of unhealthy skin many categorize under "sensitive skin". In reality, few individuals have truly sensitive skin. Many symptoms, including dryness, redness, small visible blood vessels, are the body's demonstration that the skin is not functioning as it should.
When it is compromised by unhealthy behaviors (improper nutrition/ hydration, smoking, excessive sun exposure) or damage from aging, as though the skin structure has collapsed. The weakening of the dermis layer causes a decrease in collagen and elastin (remembering from the first blog on skincare, we can not add collagen or elastin to our skin through skincare products. Our skin must make it's own). This collapse of the dermis also weakens the skin's immune response as fewer antibodies are produced. This puts the skin at risk of diseases and even skin cancer. What is usually noticed first, is their skin cannot tolerate various products placed upon it. Thus we say we have "sensitive skin", rather than the tough love needed to restore it back to a healthy condition.
Tough love comes in the form of a daily at-home exfoliation, which encourages skin rejuvenation. As these products dissolve the karatin (dead cell) layer, the skin begins producing more collagen to bring the dermis back to its proper thickness. As the health of your skin improves, you'll notice more elastic, less sensitive and more healthy looking.
Don't waste your money and frustration on products that feature "microspheres" or "granules" they fail to effectively exfoliate and if misused, could cause inflammation leading to further skin damage. Two types of techniques may be used mechanical or chemical.
Mechanical Exfoliation
Most men exfoliate their faces every day through the simple act of shaving. The scraping of a blade against the skin removes dead skin layers. On a middle-aged man, you'll see a noticeable difference between the wrinkles appearing on the forehead and the smooth complexion where he shaves.
This type of exfoliation is not recommended or practical for in-home use. Rather in-office procedures such as microdermabrasion, dermabrasion, or laser resurgfacing are required.
Chemical Exfoliation
This exfoliation requires the use of acid to dissolve the dead karatin tissue. In-office is called peels to remove this layer chemically. But at home, this isn't realistic and could result in burns, so the FDA has intervened for public safety, that chemical acid peels do not exist for purchase over-the-counter. The solution is to use a daily exfoliate that features an effective pH level.
Acids used in Chemical Exfoliation
Of all the acids available, no other family of ingredients has been as beneficial in exfoliation as alpha hydroxy acids, AHAs, these acids are NATURALLY derived from FRUITS and VEGETABLES. AHAs wrk by dissolving a part of the surface inter-cellular cement that holds karatin cells together, allowing them to slough off.
AHA acids commonly used in skincare products and chemical peels
This is where I become frustrated with people who read labels but do not understand what they are reading and assume a product to be unsafe or not natural simply because they don't know what they are reading.
Lactic acid -- derived from Milk
Tartaric acid -- derived from Grapes and Passion Fruit
Malic acid -- derived from Apples
Glycolic acid -- obtained from Sugarcane or Rhubarb (smallest size, penetrates between cells more readily than other acids. Causes the least inflammation of all the AHAs.
Citric acids -- derived from Citrus Fruits
Rentinoic acid -- derived from animal sources and plants containing beta-carotene (found in an earlier blog about nutrition)
BHAs are beta hydroxy acids
Salicylic acid -- derived from Wintergreen, Sweet Birch, and/or Willow Bark
While AHAs and BHAs are utilized in many products, they are most effective when found in those intended to be left on the skin instead of washed off. The percentage of acid in a product is not a good indicator of it's effectiveness. As the pH level is more important to know, one closer to pH3, and should contain an anti-inflammatory ingredient like a medical grade aloe vera to prevent burn. It may take a short period of time for your skin to adjust, and you may experience dryness, flaking, slight redness or breakouts. These conditions are temporary and will subside as your skin builds its tolerance to the product and becomes healthy.
You should exfoliate on a daily basis as the keratin layer is constantly trying to thicken. Infrequent use could result in a dull, uneven skin tone, blemishes, fine lines.
Step #3 -- Morning and Evening Moisturize
Our skin being the largest organ of our body, has a sizeable surface area that regularly evaporates water from inside the body in the form of sweat. It's the basic biological function of skin. Thus it is the first part of the body to experience dehydration. Especially in cold and dry environments found in winters up north and hot summers in the south.
A common myth is that water is absorbed into the skin through skincare products to increase the moisture. This is false, as we can't absorb water past the first cellular layers of the epidermis. The use of moisturizers work to prevent surface evaporation through the use of humectants, molecules that hold more than their weight in water and act as a barrier.
Moisturizers are essential, regardless of your skin type. People with oily or acne skin are often told that they don't need to use a moisturizer at all. Rather, they simply need to utilize a formulation designed for their skin type, not as oily.
You do not need a day and a night moisturizer. Your skin doesn't change throughout the course of the day. The decision to use two separate moisturizers is a personal one. Day moisturizers are convenient as they usually include SPF to protect the skin from sun damage. Night moisturizers are usually formulated with additional humectants and masking agents to make them more moisturizing (heavier). Most products are manufactured to include fragrance or ingredients to appeal to a customers senses. Don't select a moisturizer or any skincare product by simply testing the product on your hand or choosing it based on smell. The skin on the back of your hand is not the same as on your face. Fragrance should be left to your choice of perfume, not your skincare products.
Step #4 -- Morning: Protect
UV light (sun damage) not only pose a potential cancer threat, but also one of main causes of skin damage. Choosing a moisturizer with SPF and benefits you from sun exposure consistently year-round. Sunscreen should be applied daily (or moisturizer with SPF) regardless of your skin tone.
When outdoors for extended periods of time, protective clothing and the application of a sunscreen with an SPF of at least 15 to exposed areas of skin, should be routine. Studies have demonstrated that sunscreens with SPF greater than 30 offer only a minimal increase in protection. SPF 30 protects you from 95-96% of UV rays. Between SPF 30 and SPF 60, there is only a .1% increase in protection.
Inflammation
inflammation is a response to harmful stimuli -- including trauma, irritation, harmful pollutants, disease or infection -- inflammation is an immune response intended to protect and heal. Symptoms of inflammation are redness, warmth, swelling, and pain. Chronic inflammation is believed to be the root cause of many diseases including heart disease, cancer, and Alzheimer's, and the biggest cause of aging.
Inflammation indicates the skin isn't properly cleaned. The presence of bacteria causes inflammation. The skin isn't properly exfoliated. The dermis layer thins and skin is more easily damaged. The skin isn't properly moisturized and inflammation begins in an attempt to heal dry skin. The skin isn't properly protected and you are at risk of sunburn and inflammation.
Many skincare products for use within the four steps are formulated with ingredients to offset inflammation. Look for those including aloe vera, one of the most potent anti-inflammatories available. Bisbolol, green tea extract and arnica.
Oxidation
When a free radical is produced due to excessive sun exposure, pollution, cigarette smoke it's called oxidation. Free radicals, which can also come through natural aging process has also been linked to heart disease, Parkinson's disease and even cancer. In skin it reduces collagen and elastin, resulting in the development of fine lines and wrinkles. Antioxidant categories including carotenoids, flavonoids and polyphenols (all covered in an earlier blog on nutrition). Key ingredients to look for include Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), Vitamin E, Coenzyme Q10, and Alpha Lipoic acid.
Healthy Skin from the Inside
Referring back to earlier blogs on nutrition, here is a summery were skin health begins in the inside.
Protein which encourages the production of collagen and aids in cellular repair
Essential fatty acids which nourish the skin, including Omega-3 fats to help reduce inflammation and monounsaturated fats to help reduce oxidative damage.
Antioxidants to help prevent damage to skin tissue.
It's important to fill the bulk of your diet with fruits and vegetables, legumes, fish, healthy oils (olive oil) and whole grains while significantly limiting the consumption of refined sugar and carbohydrates. The consumption of meat, dairy, fats and carbohydrates may actually promote skin wrinkling. The use of a highest quality Natural supplements may be beneficial in ensuring your skin receives the proper level of nutrients. Also it's important to drink adequate amounts of water to prevent internal dehydration, this is all cells of the body, skin cells included. We can not absorb water, we must take it internally. It's recommended you drink half your body weight, in ounces of water daily. Water does not mean pop or alcohol or caffeine. It could include herbal tea. Juices that are 100% and no sugar added could replace some of your water as liquid intake. But water in itself is important and should be more than half your daily fluid intake. Consider a water filtration system if you're on a city water treatment supply.
I highly recommend looking at TreSkin RX, formulated with medical grade aloe vera to heal skin healthy. http://my.treskinrx.com/AmazingAloe
And through Amazon.com the book "Simple Skincare, Beautiful Skin"
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