Thursday, March 24, 2016

Skincare Common Myths and the Truth

I'm going to take a break from the Nutrition blog posts for a short time and bring up a frustrating topic about skincare and products. 

American's spend nearly $1.6 Billion on anti-aging skincare products alone!  But when surveyed about 3% claim to be satisfied with what they are using.  Most women have dozens of partially used, half empty bottles and jars of skincare products in their bathrooms.  They were not satisfied, the products didn't do as they claimed, and these are set aside as they try out the newest and latest on the market, usually to be let down yet again by marketing hype.

What I'm going to share with you, comes from  Dr Almed Abdullah, MD, FACS, FICS American Board of Plastic Surgery -- Certified Surgeon.  An expert knowledge of organic chemistry, biology, and pharmacology.  Dr Abdullah's significant part of his surgical training was spent working with burns and exploring elements that impact wound healing, skin graphs.  Having searched the skincare on the market for products for pre and post procedure and for ongoing maintenance of his patients skin, and finding the frustrating marketing claims in the process.  Dr Marin Robson, past chair of the American Board of Plastic Surgery, recognized worldwide for his research on the benefits of aloe in healing.  Aloe vera was found to have immense benefits to the skin, accelerated healing of tissue damage, frost bite and burns to diabetes.  Aloe vera's effectiveness has been proven not only in the laboratory but in human studies.

Common Myths #1
Products containing collagen and/ or Elastin can rejuvenate skin cells
Countless advertisements in recent years exclaim a product's use of collagen and/or elastin.  These are major structural proteins in our skin that are often advertised to have magical qualities when applied topically.  However, the reality is that, when added to a product, collagen or elastin has absolutely NO benefit  to the skin whatsoever.  At most, they may make the product consistency "feel" more silky and smooth. 

Why?
Collagen and elastin are proteins found in our skin and in that of all animals.  These proteins comprise the structure of the dermal layer of the skin.  However, a collaagen and elastin cannot be absorbed into the skin because their molecular size is too large, a step that would be essential if they were to do any good whatsoever.  What's more, if you take them out of a human or animal source, the proteins are dead.  Therefore, even if the skin could absorb them, they're completely inactive and would not provide any benefit.  The only collagen or elastin our bodies can use is that created by our own cells and tissues.  That from another human or animal source is completely useless.

Say for a moment, however, that collagen and elastin did have some beneficial properties when applied topically to the skin.  It would then be important to note the type of collagen or elastin that is used.  Most collagen and elastin found on ingredient lists is referred to as "soluble collagen" or "Hydrolyzed elastin".  This means the manufacturer has actually cut the molecule into tiny pieces.  Therefore, even if they were beneficial, you aren't getting true collagen or elastin in these products -- only pieces of these proteins.

The only benefit of using collagen or elastin in skincare products is the improvement it brings to consistency of the product.  In other words, they make the product feel nice on the skin.

Common Myth #2
Products containing oxygen ensure youthful -- looking skin
Given that oxygen is essential to life, its usage on our skin must be beneficial, right?  WRONG!

Why?
Simply put, we need approximately 23% oxygen in the air we breathe to live.  Anything more than that may be converted into O3, otherwise known as oxidants or free radicals.  This fact alone demonstrates that oxygen in skincare products isn't beneficial.  However, let's go a step further and look at a few additional realities.  First, humans cannot absorb oxygen through the skin; it is only absorbed through the lungs.  From an evolutionary standpoint, if our skin could absorb oxygen, our lungs wouldn't have developed.  Second -- and here's the real catch -- oxygen cannot even be put into a skincare product because it's a gas.  It simply won't mix with the product's other added ingredients.  Even if it could be contained in a product formulation, it would release into the atmosphere rather than penetrate the skin when applied, due to its gaseous state.  Therefore, any marketing that claims a product contains pure oxygen is little more than false advertising.

Common Myth #3
Facial skin requires multiple moisturizers


It is a common misconception that skin needs numerous, separate moisturizers for different areas of the face.  The skin does need a good moisturizer, the type of which is dependent upon skin type.  For instance, oily skin requires a moisturizer with less oil-based humectants, while very dry skin needs a moisturizer with heavier humectants.  However, there is no absolute need to buy separate moisturizers for different parts of your face. 
Common Myth #4
Separate eye cream is essential
The skin around the eyes is thinner and has fewer oil glands.  Therefore, it does require extra care.  However, use of a hydrating moisturizer works just fine if carefully applied around the eyes.  Skin is skin, so what works on the rest of your face works on this area, as well.
If trying, specifically, to improve the appearance of fine lines, puffiness, and dark circles, then a separate eye product such as a serum or gel-formulated product with extra emollients may be considered.  And could be used on the full face and neck, not just around the eyes.

Common Myth #5
The concept of "Gentle Exfoliation"
There is no such thing as "gentle exfoliation".  By it's nature, exfoliation requires force or strong acid to remove dead and damaged skin cells.  Only by being aggressive with exfoliation will it give the desired effect of collagen stimulation and dermal rejuvenation.  Although rubbing the skin with "granules" or "microspheres" may have a temporary polished feel to the skin, it will not provide the necessary force to slough dead skin cells and boost collagen production.
Common Myth #6
Products that are "Dermatologist recommended" or "Dermatologist tested" are proven to work
Phrases like "dermatologist recommended" or "dermatologist tested" simply mean that as few as ONE dermatologist has tried the product or used it on a patient with no negative results.  It is in no way valid proof of a product's performance.  By the way, the same goes for Dentist recommended, only one Dentist needs to recommend it to make that claim in marketing.

Common Myth #7
Men and women require different skincare products

 In recent years, there has been an increase in the number of skincare products formulated specifically for men.  Remember the tenant that "skin is skin"?  The same rule applies here.  Of course, individuals have different concerns and, thus, require diffeing approaches to skincare.  But these differences cannot simply be divided down gender lines.

Given the recent growth of the male personal care market, it's no wonder that companies are putting out skincare lines targeted specifically to this audience.  However, the only difference between these products and other skincare lines is the fragrance and the look of the bottles.   After all, few men want a "cute" bottle on their bathroom shelf.  However, if you're frugal and your husband is comfortable in his masculinity but simply wants to take care of his skin.  There is no reason why you can't use the same products together, provided you both have the same skin type (dry, oily, normal).  Why waste money when there is no actual reason for separate products, unless the products are scented for a man or woman.

Common Myth #8
Expensive skincare products from established brands are the most effective 
This is exactly what the marketers of those brands want you to think.  In reality, this statement is far from true.  These brands, most of which invest far more in marketing than in product research and development, gain their "well known" reputation through aggressive advertising campaigns.  
Common Myth #9
Water-Based skincare products keep your skin hydrated
This is, one of the biggest myths within the skincare industry.  Water-based skincare products don't hydrate because the skin cannot absorb water.  The presence of water simply dilutes the active ingredients that are contained within the product.

Consider this, if our skin absorbed water, what would happen when we shower or go swimming?  We'd be like a sponge.  Try this, place a drop of water on the back of your hand and just sit.  The water will stay there, unless you rub it which actually is evaporation not absorption.  Why?  Because your skin won't absorb the water.  So why do skincare products have water or purified water listed, often as the first ingredient?  Because it's a very inexpensive filler, you think you're getting more for your money.  

Nearly every skincare brand, whether physician-dispensed or over-the-counter, drugstore or department store, organic or conventional, usilizes a base of water.  When aloe is utilized it was in minute quantities and of inadequate quality to generate results.  Most product formulations are more marketing than science and have little hope of ever accomplishing the results for which they are intended-claimed.  When looking for the most effective quality skincare, a base of pharmaceutical-grade aloe vera and ingredients proven by unbiased science to benefit the skin, is important.  

 Facing the Facts 
To the left are two photo's of the same lady, before and after a face lift.  the simple truth is that the aging process cannot be reversed and it's important consumers are realistic about the results they'll achieve by using a skincare formulation.  While there are methods available such as a face lift to mask one's age, they do not come from a bottle.  However, learning at an early age to take care of your skin, will improve how you age.  Advanced formulations are capable of greatly improving characteristics associated with poor skin health, such as rough texture and fine lines dramatized by a lack of exfoliation, and diminishment of the skin's ability to

 produce collagen and elastin. Healthy skin is beautiful skin.  

Keep in mind these key factors when it comes to effective true skincare.
#1 The most effective skincare regimen is one that is simple.
#2 If a product sounds too good to be true, it probably is
#3 Maintaining an effective skincare regimen should not cost you a fortune
#4 There are no shortcuts on the path to beautiful skin.  Getting there requires a commitment to healthy behaviors
                             #5 An advertisement should never be the tool by which you decide the skincare products you'll buy.  By becoming educated (more blog posts about skincare will be coming), you empower yourself to objectively evaluate claims and select products that will meet the needs of your skin. 

A book on amazon to consider is "Simple Skincare, Beautiful Skin" A Back-to-Basic approach.
 
 

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