Hot Button Ingredients
Unless you're a chemist by trade, product ingredient
lists can be overwhelming. For that reason, do
research on individual ingredients in product formulations on the Internet? Relying on the web to learn more about ingredients can be both beneficial and detrimental. It seems there are both "pro" and "con" camps for nearly every skincare ingredient. Of course, these campaigns are plagued by misinformation. This is why decisions about skincare formulations must be based on findings of clinical studies, instead of Internet rumors.
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
A surfactant (detergent) used in cleansers, sodium laureth sulfate came under scrutiny in the late 90s when an Internet rumor began circulating about the "carcinogenic" nature of this ingredient. Despite the inaccuracy of the rumor, sodium laureth sulfate was soon villainized.
The TRUTH, those with particular sensitive skin should avoid sodium laureth sulfate, as it can be irritating. But for the majority of the population, the ingredient poses negligible risk.
Mineral Oil
When mineral oil first began being used in moisturizers, it proved to be an excellent humectant. This led to the unfortunate assumption that if a little mineral oil provides beneficial results, using a lot in a formulation will make it even better. However, when used in high concentrations, mineral oil can plug pores, leading to acne and diminished skin health. Improper use of mineral oil led to the unfortunate widespread belief that any use of the ingredient in a skincare formulation is bad.
To be beneficial in skincare formulation, mineral oil must be used in limited concentration and must be of cosmetic grade or higher (pharmaceutical grade is best). The lesser the grade, thee more impurities it may have. However, considering that the FDA regulates the purity level of mineral oil, there's a slim chance of finding a poor grade in your skincare product.
Second rumor about mineral oil is that it causes cancer. This report is completely baseless, as no scientific study has ever indicated a link between mineral oil and cancer.
Alcohol
Is the ingreditn tha I absolutely recommend you avoid using in skincare products. It is often found in "toners" to help remove dirt and give the skin a refreshed feeling. However, alcohol is an irritant and dries the skin. This causes inflammation and increases the risk of skin damage.
It is important to note that there are some beneficial skincare ingredients that are related to alcohol, including glycols, which act as emollients. The fats and oils found in glycols moisturize the skin. When these fatty acids are removed, the result is alcohol. Try to avoid products that list alcohol in forms like ethyl alcohol and isopropyl alcohol as well as ethanol or methanol.
Urea
Is a preservative commonly used in skincare products. The reason propagated for not using it are twofold. There are those who say it is a waste byproduct of the body, making it unappealing for use in skincare products. And then there's the group who says urea releases formaldehyde and is therefore a carcinogen. Here is the real truth:
It's true that urea is a waste produced when the body metabolizes protein. However, the urea used in skincare products is not the same chemical and comes from a synthetic process. Therefore, you can rest assured you aren't applying waste products to your face.
Regarding the risk of cancer from using products with urea, this is a completely unfounded assertion. In fact, in 1990, the FDA asked its Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel to review the science on urea. That investigation led to a report stating that urea is, indeed, safe for use in cosmetics in concentrations up to 0.5%. In 2006, the CIR again investigated urea, using current science. That investigation led to a report that confirmed the findings from 1990 and again declared urea safe for use in cosmetics (You can find an overview of ingredients the CIR has investigated at www.sir-safety.org ).
Parabens
Of all the controversial skincare ingredients, it's the topic of parabens that I'm most passionate about. And, for tht reason, I want to elaborate on it a bit more than some of the other ingredients.
As a plastic surgeon (Dr Abdulah) who has had countless breast concer survivors as patients, I'm particularly sensitive to ingredients that are considered carcinogenic -- especially those that may be linked to breast cancer, specifically. Therefore, in 2004, when the Internet began swirling with claims that parabens cause cancer, I immediately dove into the research to get the full story. AFter all, parabens are among the most utilized preservatives in the skincare industry and have been used safely and effectively for more than 80 years. If they were suddenly found dangerous, countless skincare products would be affected.
Here's the background, TRUTH:
In 2004, a researccher in the United Kingdom named Phillipa Darbre published a study in the Journal of applied Toxicology that found paraben-like substances in breast cancer tissue. Given the sensitivity in our society to breast cancer, it didn't take long for parabens to be put on the top of every list of "bad skincare products." Additionally, skincare product manufacturers almost immediately began changing their formulations to utilize newer preservatives.
What the Darbre study did not do is show causation of breast cancer by parabens. It also failed to show them to be harmful in any way. In fact, the study left many questions unanswered. For example, it did not look at possible paraben levels in normal tissue, an essential step if any valid conclusion was to be made.
Since the Darbre study, follow-up investigations, including a 2008 comprehensive review by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) have confirmed parabens safety. With that, the FDA, the National Cancer Institute, and the American Cancer Society, among others, released statements denying proof of a linkage between parabens and breast cancer. Today, parabens remain officially approved for use in cosmetics by the US FDA, the European Commission, the Japanese Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare, and many more regulatory bodies. Despite this, the fear campaign surrounding parabens continues, spurred on by various spcial interest groups and even manufacturers who have turned to paraben-free preservatives.
So what's wrong with using an alternative preservative in skincare products? Perhaps nothing. However, we can'tt be sure becuase most other preservatives are relatively new and lack the long track record of success that accompanies parabens.
What is most alarming is that paraben controversy, and others like it, have led some manufacturers to condemn preservatives altogether and, with that, they've begun marketing "preservative-free" formulations. Nearly every skincare product on the market today contains some amount of water. And with the use of water comes risk, for it creates a habitat in which bacteria, fungi, molds and other microorganisms are encouraged to grow and thrive. Thus there can be no such thing as a preservative-free skincare product unless it is to have no shelf life or is exclusively oil-based or water-free.
Rather, there are many ways to mask the presence of man-made preservatives. And it is of this issue that I've found few to be aware. In fact, natural/organic preservative distributors will even admit that a truly natural broad spectrum preservative is not currently available.
While there are some "natural" substances that offer antibacterial benefits at high concentrations, such as certain essential oils, they are very narrow in their spectrum of protection against bacteria. The challenge is that there is no way to add these preservatives in high enough concentrations without causing severe reactions. And conversely, adding an amount that will avoid irritation doesn't offer protection from microorganisms.
Of the many natural preservatives utilized in skincare products today, a good number have failed challenge testing by third-party groups such as the Cosmetic Toiletry Fragrance Association (CTFA) or United States Pharmacopeia (USP). Despite this, manufacturers continue to use the ingredients and back them by claiming they passed the company's own internal testing requirements. Additionally, some "preservative-free" skincare products utilize a loop-hole to hide the presence of preservatives. The FDA does not require manufacturers to disclose the actual ingredients that comprise "fragrance" or "perfume". Therefore, companies are able to include preservatives in their products but mask their presence with the "fragrance" umbrella. This is also sometimes done with the ingredient terms "base" or "blend".
The fact is, preservatives that are found freely in nature may be more irritating since they do not conform to the rules that are applied to the ingredients used in product formulations. Skincare products require stability and shelf life, and unfortunately, natural preservatives aren't very adapting to these requirements. The simple fact is that man-made formulations have fewer by-products and are, thus, safer than natural biologically active ingredients.
Ensuring skincare formulations do more than simply smell or feel nice does require some work on your part. However, it's a worthy effort, indeed. The time you invest will save you money and frustration. More important, however, it will bring a sense of satisfaction when your effort leads you to a product that provides an undeniable improvement in the condition of your skin.
Unless you're a chemist by trade, product ingredient
lists can be overwhelming. For that reason, do
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
A surfactant (detergent) used in cleansers, sodium laureth sulfate came under scrutiny in the late 90s when an Internet rumor began circulating about the "carcinogenic" nature of this ingredient. Despite the inaccuracy of the rumor, sodium laureth sulfate was soon villainized.
The TRUTH, those with particular sensitive skin should avoid sodium laureth sulfate, as it can be irritating. But for the majority of the population, the ingredient poses negligible risk.
Mineral Oil
When mineral oil first began being used in moisturizers, it proved to be an excellent humectant. This led to the unfortunate assumption that if a little mineral oil provides beneficial results, using a lot in a formulation will make it even better. However, when used in high concentrations, mineral oil can plug pores, leading to acne and diminished skin health. Improper use of mineral oil led to the unfortunate widespread belief that any use of the ingredient in a skincare formulation is bad.
To be beneficial in skincare formulation, mineral oil must be used in limited concentration and must be of cosmetic grade or higher (pharmaceutical grade is best). The lesser the grade, thee more impurities it may have. However, considering that the FDA regulates the purity level of mineral oil, there's a slim chance of finding a poor grade in your skincare product.
Second rumor about mineral oil is that it causes cancer. This report is completely baseless, as no scientific study has ever indicated a link between mineral oil and cancer.
Alcohol
Is the ingreditn tha I absolutely recommend you avoid using in skincare products. It is often found in "toners" to help remove dirt and give the skin a refreshed feeling. However, alcohol is an irritant and dries the skin. This causes inflammation and increases the risk of skin damage.
It is important to note that there are some beneficial skincare ingredients that are related to alcohol, including glycols, which act as emollients. The fats and oils found in glycols moisturize the skin. When these fatty acids are removed, the result is alcohol. Try to avoid products that list alcohol in forms like ethyl alcohol and isopropyl alcohol as well as ethanol or methanol.
Urea
Is a preservative commonly used in skincare products. The reason propagated for not using it are twofold. There are those who say it is a waste byproduct of the body, making it unappealing for use in skincare products. And then there's the group who says urea releases formaldehyde and is therefore a carcinogen. Here is the real truth:
It's true that urea is a waste produced when the body metabolizes protein. However, the urea used in skincare products is not the same chemical and comes from a synthetic process. Therefore, you can rest assured you aren't applying waste products to your face.
Regarding the risk of cancer from using products with urea, this is a completely unfounded assertion. In fact, in 1990, the FDA asked its Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel to review the science on urea. That investigation led to a report stating that urea is, indeed, safe for use in cosmetics in concentrations up to 0.5%. In 2006, the CIR again investigated urea, using current science. That investigation led to a report that confirmed the findings from 1990 and again declared urea safe for use in cosmetics (You can find an overview of ingredients the CIR has investigated at www.sir-safety.org ).
Parabens
Of all the controversial skincare ingredients, it's the topic of parabens that I'm most passionate about. And, for tht reason, I want to elaborate on it a bit more than some of the other ingredients.
As a plastic surgeon (Dr Abdulah) who has had countless breast concer survivors as patients, I'm particularly sensitive to ingredients that are considered carcinogenic -- especially those that may be linked to breast cancer, specifically. Therefore, in 2004, when the Internet began swirling with claims that parabens cause cancer, I immediately dove into the research to get the full story. AFter all, parabens are among the most utilized preservatives in the skincare industry and have been used safely and effectively for more than 80 years. If they were suddenly found dangerous, countless skincare products would be affected.
Here's the background, TRUTH:
In 2004, a researccher in the United Kingdom named Phillipa Darbre published a study in the Journal of applied Toxicology that found paraben-like substances in breast cancer tissue. Given the sensitivity in our society to breast cancer, it didn't take long for parabens to be put on the top of every list of "bad skincare products." Additionally, skincare product manufacturers almost immediately began changing their formulations to utilize newer preservatives.
What the Darbre study did not do is show causation of breast cancer by parabens. It also failed to show them to be harmful in any way. In fact, the study left many questions unanswered. For example, it did not look at possible paraben levels in normal tissue, an essential step if any valid conclusion was to be made.
Since the Darbre study, follow-up investigations, including a 2008 comprehensive review by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) have confirmed parabens safety. With that, the FDA, the National Cancer Institute, and the American Cancer Society, among others, released statements denying proof of a linkage between parabens and breast cancer. Today, parabens remain officially approved for use in cosmetics by the US FDA, the European Commission, the Japanese Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare, and many more regulatory bodies. Despite this, the fear campaign surrounding parabens continues, spurred on by various spcial interest groups and even manufacturers who have turned to paraben-free preservatives.
So what's wrong with using an alternative preservative in skincare products? Perhaps nothing. However, we can'tt be sure becuase most other preservatives are relatively new and lack the long track record of success that accompanies parabens.
What is most alarming is that paraben controversy, and others like it, have led some manufacturers to condemn preservatives altogether and, with that, they've begun marketing "preservative-free" formulations. Nearly every skincare product on the market today contains some amount of water. And with the use of water comes risk, for it creates a habitat in which bacteria, fungi, molds and other microorganisms are encouraged to grow and thrive. Thus there can be no such thing as a preservative-free skincare product unless it is to have no shelf life or is exclusively oil-based or water-free.
Rather, there are many ways to mask the presence of man-made preservatives. And it is of this issue that I've found few to be aware. In fact, natural/organic preservative distributors will even admit that a truly natural broad spectrum preservative is not currently available.
While there are some "natural" substances that offer antibacterial benefits at high concentrations, such as certain essential oils, they are very narrow in their spectrum of protection against bacteria. The challenge is that there is no way to add these preservatives in high enough concentrations without causing severe reactions. And conversely, adding an amount that will avoid irritation doesn't offer protection from microorganisms.
Of the many natural preservatives utilized in skincare products today, a good number have failed challenge testing by third-party groups such as the Cosmetic Toiletry Fragrance Association (CTFA) or United States Pharmacopeia (USP). Despite this, manufacturers continue to use the ingredients and back them by claiming they passed the company's own internal testing requirements. Additionally, some "preservative-free" skincare products utilize a loop-hole to hide the presence of preservatives. The FDA does not require manufacturers to disclose the actual ingredients that comprise "fragrance" or "perfume". Therefore, companies are able to include preservatives in their products but mask their presence with the "fragrance" umbrella. This is also sometimes done with the ingredient terms "base" or "blend".
The fact is, preservatives that are found freely in nature may be more irritating since they do not conform to the rules that are applied to the ingredients used in product formulations. Skincare products require stability and shelf life, and unfortunately, natural preservatives aren't very adapting to these requirements. The simple fact is that man-made formulations have fewer by-products and are, thus, safer than natural biologically active ingredients.
Ensuring skincare formulations do more than simply smell or feel nice does require some work on your part. However, it's a worthy effort, indeed. The time you invest will save you money and frustration. More important, however, it will bring a sense of satisfaction when your effort leads you to a product that provides an undeniable improvement in the condition of your skin.
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